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Somerset Sneeukop

04 Nov 2017

A friend of mine wanted to hike Somerset Sneeukop (Somerset Snow Peak) for her birthday. She asked me to lead the hike, since I have done the hike before and knew the route. Somerset Sneeukop is the highest peak in the Jonkershoek mountains, scaling at 1590 m above sea level, only one meter higher than Victoria peak. If it snows during the winter, Somerset Sneeukop is covered with a snow blanket and can clearly be seen from Somerset West – therefore the name, Somerset Sneeukop. The best time of year to hike it is in spring, since the mountain would have enough water after the winter rains. It is also one of the longest hikes in Jonkershoek and you would need ample daylight to finish before dark. We decided to go up Kurktrekkersnek and come down the Swartboskloof route. Unknowingly, we were in for a beautiful display of mountains with fascinating clouds, a landscape photographers dream.

I decided to get up earlier than the rest of the group and photograph the Jonkershoek dam during sunrise. I was rewarded with a beautiful sunrise. I specifically wanted to get a photo of the sun, peaking out behind the mountains. But it hid either behind the mountains or under a cloudy blanket. I will have to try again on a day that the sun isn’t playing hide and seek.

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Early morning in the Jonkershoek valley

After joining the group, we started off from the white bridge in the Jonkershoek valley, passing the first and second waterfall. Due to good rains earlier the week, these waterfalls put up quite an interesting display. Unfortunately they were still in shadow and therefore I didn't photograph them.

We ascended the mountain via Kurktrekkersnek (Cork screw neck), getting its name from the zig-zagging trail, having a similar shape than a cork screw. Or maybe you have to make use of a cork screw to open up a bottle of wine in celebration of reaching the top. Unfortunately this part of the trail has been badly eroded, with parts only consisting of loose rocks.

After managing the loose rocks, we reached the top of Kurktrekkersnek, being greeted with a beautiful display of flowers. I have been to this spot many times before, but this was the first time I saw it covered in such a colourful display.

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The top of Kurktrekkersnek was covered by a colorful display of flowers

After a quick rest at Kurktrekkersnek, we continued, the trail leading up past Sterrekykerskop (Star gazers peak). The trail continues in the direction of Swartboskloof, but we took the Landdroskop turn-off, which led towards our destination. We passed below the Triplets, the trail starting to flatten out.

We reached an interesting rock formation, providing leading lines towards the Jonkershoek valley. All the photos on this hike I took by hand, since I decided to leave my tripod in the car. I knew that there would be enough light during the hike, making a tripod obsolete. There is no need in carrying extra weight if I knew that I wouldn't require it.

During the past year I had to learn to compose a composition quite quickly during hikes. Due to time constraints and fellow hikers wanting to move on, there isn't always sufficient time to look for a good composition. Normally, the mountains catches my eye first and then I keep a lookout for an interesting foreground. Once found, I quickly build my composition around that and take a photo.

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These rocks provided interesting leading lines towards the Jonkershoek valley in the background.

The last part of the trail towards Somerset Sneeukop is overgrown with Protea bushes, through which we had to fight our way. While being engulfed by the Proteas, it felt that someone might suddenly be snatched by a raptor – similar to the Jurassic Park movie. After emerging from bushes, and all accounted for…we saw Somerset Sneeukop for the first time. The peak is in the form of a cone, but it had a slight blackish tint to it, due to recent veld fires.

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Somerset Sneeukop, our end point in sight.

On our way to the peak, we had to cross a scree (a heap of rocks dumped during a rock slide). I thought it is called a “scream”, since these rocks must have been screaming while tumbling down the mountain. Luckily, the rocks were quite stable and it actually made for easier hiking than fighting through the Protea bushes.

While crossing the scree I saw the clouds had a very interesting pattern. I took a photo with the rocks in the foreground, tilting my camera and dividing the frame in two by the horizon. The foreground rocks with the patterned clouds in the back complemented each other and resulted in an interesting photo…earth versus sky.

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I like how the patterns of the rocks complements the clouds, creating an interest contrast between earth and sky.

Upon reaching the foot of Somerset Sneeukop with tired legs, we were in awe of the beautiful mountains. We decided to take a quick break, before doing the last ascent. I crouched, while taking a photo… and when I looked down, my legs were covered in ants. I accidently stood on an ant’s nest. And these guys had huge pinchers! Suddenly I started to jump around, providing entertainment for my fellow hikers. After ridding myself of these little critters, we hiked up a scree again, myself “screaming” every know and then due to pinching ant. The group continued up the scree, screaming with laughter…

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The scree upon which we ascended Somerset Sneeukop. One of the triplets can be seen to the left…with a massive and vicious ant colony at the end of the rocks;)

We scrambled up the slope and the higher we got, the more I was in wonder. The mountains towards Haelkop (a prominent peak in Jonkershoek) was revealed with white, streaking clouds above it. Instead of pushing for the summit, I rather photographed the scene in front of me. After a long hike and fighting off massive ants, I had the chance to enjoy the mountain’s beauty and serenity for a few moments. Afterwards I was so happy that I took the photos before summiting, since the mist started to roll in during lunch, hiding the view for the rest of the day. There and then I decided that I will have to come back and sleep over on this peak. I just have to capture this amazing landscape during the golden hour.

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Jagged mountains complemented with different shades of greens and a cloudy sky. A view that made me stood in wonder.

The mist started to roll in while we were having lunch on the summit. It was as if the clouds were playing hide and seek between the peaks. We didn't speak much…we just enjoyed the clouds dancing between the peaks. Moments like this is why I love to explore mountains. Sometimes not even a photo or timelapse will do it justice (although I tried my best). You have to see it for yourself!

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On top of Somerset Sneeukop, the mist started to roll in, playing hide and seek between the peaks

After a quick lunch and a wonderful display of the Jonkershoek mountain’s beauty, we set off. We followed the same route… down the scree, making sure to avoid the ant’s nest, through the Protea bushes, past the triplets…Still the clouds was amazing and every now and then I stopped for a photo. So many times I have been on hikes, wishing for clouds like these. I couldn't believe my eyes!

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Corne providing the names of the peaks in the distance, Twin Peaks (Pieke), Rifberg, Cathedral peak, with amazing clouds formations

We reached a T-junction in the trail, instead of turning right towards Kurktrekkersnek, we turned left towards Swartboskloof. This part of the trail was filled with colourful flowers. I will have to go back to this part of Jonkershoek next spring to capture it in full bloom.

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Flowers adding some colour to the landscape, with Cathedral peak in the background.

By this time my one knee started to give problems…not the best timing. Maybe it was the side effects after being attacked by an army of ants? Luckily, I had my fair share of suffering in the mountains before and I knew that I will make it, I just had to be tough and push on. The descent down Swartboskloof was beautiful, but unforgiving on my knee.

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A rock strewn Swartboskloof, with the Jonkershoek valley in the background. Not easy terrain to struggle with a soar knee.

After 11 hours in the mountains, Corne surprised us with an ice cold beer at the end point. One of the best I had! With our feet cooling off in the Eerste river, we relived the adventures of the day and already planning the next one. What a beautiful day it was in the mountains with very good conditions for landscape photography. I would only recommend this trail for very experienced hikers. And watch out for that army of massive ants…OUCH!!!

 


I would love to hear your comments about this blog post. Have you done this hiking route and what were your thoughts on it?


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1 Comment

  1. Pieter Cordier on 21/07/2023 at 06:10

    W😍W love your story telling and photos Nick. I always hike with my camera connected to my tripod. Unfortunately it comes with some accidental bumps and scars. But I don’t want to be losing out on a possible ‘quick’ photo stack scene.

    Many times I had to ran my way back to the group 😁 Can imagine a tripod will drain you on this long hike! Done Kurktrekker, Haelkop, Twin Peaks and Swartboskloof before. Jonkershoek is one of my favourites, especially when on solo hikes 💕

    Hope to join you one day and experience your absolute love for the mountains! Do one need special permission from CN to camp or sleep over on the mountain? Oh and off course would love to experience and learn some of the techniques you use!

    Greetings
    Pieter Cordier

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