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Tsitsikamma (days 1 and 2)

28 Dec 2017

Day 1: Lottering Plantation to Keurbos hut

The Tsitsikamma hiking trail has been on my bucket list for a long time. At the end of 2017 a friend invited me to join them for 4 days on the hiking tail. I couldn't wait to explore the Tsitsikamma's indigenous forests.

The Tsitsikamma hiking trails meanders through the slopes of the Tsitsikamma mountains, which is situated inland from one of South Africa’s most famous hiking trails,

The Otter. The Tsitsikmma mountains consist of fynbos covered mountain slopes and “kloof” filled indigenous forests. It made me think of a combination between the Knysna forest and Cape mountains.

After leaving early from Cape Town, our hiking group was excited to spend the last days of 2017 outside in nature. What better way to welcome the new year! Two of us, including myself, were carrying all our gear, while the the rest of the group decided to slack pack (slack pack is when you only carry a day pack, while your overnight gear is delivered each day to the hut). I was used to hike with all my gear and felt that slack packing is “cheating”. I learned some valuable lessons during this hike, especially on the your choice of gear, but more on that later.

The first days hike followed a jeep track from our starting point at the Lottering Plantation and finished at the Keurbos hut. It is the third hut of the 6 day Tsitsikamma trail version. This wasn't the most beautiful part of the hike, but it did get the legs going. And I made a critical error…

After 5 km’s we reached a stream, a perfect spot for swimming and having lunch. This was also the first time that I wanted to take a photo…only to discover that my camera has no power! I realized that my camera’s battery was still in its charger, in my car.

I had two options, hike for 4 days with a camera, two lenses and a tripod without being able to take a single photo. The other option was to go back to my car and fetch the forgotten battery. I decided to jog back to the car and I was so relieved that my battery was actually there. Luckily I got a lift back with one of the trail’s staff to where I hid my backpack in the forest. He told me that the Tsitsikamma hiking trail has increased in popularity lately, due to the introduction of slack packing. More than 9000 hiker’s boots traversed the Tsitsikamma mountains for 2017. Amazing!

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The stream where I realized that my camera’s battery is missing!

After taking a well deserved swim and of course a photo of the stream, I set off to the Keurbos hut. The day was cloudy and grey, not the best light for photography, but I thoroughly enjoyed the flowers. Pinks, red and even yellows. A feast for the eyes! I learned in the past to play the ball as it lies when it comes to photography. When conditions or the scenery isn't ideal, challenge yourself to be creative. I concentrated on the smaller things and took some timelapses when resting. And oh boy, was I pleasantly surprised with what I saw.

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The stream where I realized that my camera’s battery is missing!

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Draped in red

While hiking, I saw this weird, orangy critter in front of my feet, busy crossing the trail. It was a hairy worm! The kind that is perfect for having fun and scaring people with. What a shame that my hiking group was way in front of me. But I was ecstatic as this is a perfect opportunity for a macro photo. I photographed mister hairy with my Olympus TG-3. It has an excellent macro function and can focus within a few millimeters from the subject.

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I met this hairy fellow on the way to Keurbos hut. It seemed that he had quite a bad hair day

I arrived at the overnight hut, the air filled with the smell of braaivleis (barbeque). I had a big smile on my face. Since the Keurboshut is situated in indigenous forest and without a vantage point for landscape photos, I decided to relax the evening. I took a cool and refreshing bath in the twin tubs (natural pools) and decided to sleep outside. I'm not one for crowded huts, especially if I have to sleep on the top of a triple bunker bed. I dozed off, enjoying a slight breeze of fresh air.

Day 2: Keurbos hut to Heuningbos hut

Waking up the next morning, I saw some hikers that's not part of our group, leaving early. I wondered if the days hike is a very long? Later I learned that they like to hike the route as quickly as possible and spend the rest of the day at the next hut. Myself on the other hand, like to take the trail in slowly, taking every moment to enjoy nature. I see no point in sitting most of the day at a hut, while I could have spent it swimming in a river or sitting beneath a tree, overlooking the marvelous mountains. But I guess, each to his own.

After a slow start form the slack packers, we crossed the Lottering river. Perfect for swimming! And was I glad I did, since the steep climb of Rushes pass lied ahead of us. As we started to ascend the pass, I had a 360 degree view of the breathtaking valleys and mountains. I composed a few shots of the flowering fynbos as foreground, with valleys leading towards mountain peaks in the distance. And of course, there were clouds in the sky, adding that extra atmosphere for landscape photos.

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One of the valleys leading to mountain peaks, begging to be climbed

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The prominent Grenadiers Cap, framed by fynbos

After reaching Rushes pass highest point, we started to descend towards the Elandsbos river. One of the problems I was experiencing was that the vegetation was head high for most parts of the trail, making it almost impossible for landscape photos. Luckily the fynbos was in bloom and I focused my camera on the colourful flowers.

The descent to Elandsbosriver was long and hot, but the cool, tea colored water was just the right medicine for the heat. At our lunch spot, the orange and black rocks in the river made for an interesting photo. I tried a few long exposure shots to capture the water’s movement. I managed to get some photos, but it would have been much better if I had a natural density filter to slow down the shutter speed. I guess I have to start saving for one.

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I loved the orange coloured water, accentuated by the darker moss covered rocks

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Looking down stream from our lunch spot

After numerous refreshing dips in the river, we continued towards Heuningbos hut (Honeybush hut). A notice at the Keurbos hut said that this day's hike shouldn't be done after heavy rainfall. I clearly understood why, after we saw numerous wooden bridges washed away. One clearly don't want to be in the Elandsbosriver when it is in flood.

Luckily we could cross the river easily. There even were ropes to stabilize ourselves while crossing the stream. We started with the second ascend of the day, telling stories (mostly making up stories), filling the Heuningboskloof with laughter.

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Crossing the mighty Elandsbosriver! Luckily for us the river was reduced to a slow, flowing stream

Heuningboskloof has incredible indigenous forest, the most impressive that I saw during the whole hike. The day was starting to end and soft sunlight was infiltrating the forest. It was also here that I took my favorite photo of the trip. A root of an enormous tree anchors the foreground, while sunlit ferns invites you to explore the trail into the forest.

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My favorite photo of the Tsitsikamma hike. For me it captures the atmosphere of the Tsitsikamma forest well

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A trail leading into the forest with sunlit vegetation. It makes we want to follow the trail and go explore

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One of many surprises the forest had to offer, a sunlit flower (I think it is an orchid) contrasted with fall coloured leaves

After a while, I could start to feel the climb, my legs were tired and I was wondering when we will reach the hut. This was the hardest part of the hike, since I thought the hut are at the top of the climb. In fact we had to get to the top of the neck and also descent to the river in the next valley. We endured and reached the Heuningbos hut…tired, but filled with wonder.

The Heuningbos hut is situated on the top of a small hill and the vegetation is cleared around its perimeter – a safety precaution from veld fires. When I saw it, I was very excited, since it would be the first time I had a vantage point to photograph the sunset. The sunset did not disappoint and were we treated with a colourful display that evening! I thoroughly enjoyed watching the clouds changing colour. It started with golden yellow and slowly turning into orange and reds. I went to bed, feeling tired, but inspired by the day’s beauty.

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What a beautiful display of colour in the clouds, overlooking the mountains at Heuningbos hut!

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I loved how the colours and clouds changed from the previous photo. It makes sunrises and sunsets so interesting.

See blog post below for days 3 and 4...

 


I would love to hear your comments about this blog post. Have you done this hiking route and what were your thoughts on it?


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